Adorning Film: How Fashion is its Own Character in Tim Burton’s Edward Scissorhands

Words Eloise Hallo

Tim Burton’s Edward Scis­sorhands may not strike the read­er as a cook­ie-cut­ter Christ­mas clas­sic. Yet, its nar­ra­tive, which loose­ly fol­lows the idea of small-town sub­ur­bia – set amidst, in part, the back­drop of the fes­tive hol­i­day peri­od – sit­u­ates its spot, as far as I’m con­cerned, on the year­ly Decem­ber watch­list. Beyond the obvi­ous­ness of snow and gaudy coloured bulbs, which per­me­ate the lat­ter end of the film, its sto­ry of an out­lier who finds love is not dis­sim­i­lar in sen­ti­men­tal­i­ty to oth­er fes­tive clas­sics we all joint­ly watch and re-watch in com­mem­o­ra­tion of the year’s term. Its ulti­mate tragedy, how­ev­er, in that Edward may not keep the love he finds, is a tes­ta­ment to his Bur­ton­ian cre­ator, who asks us to recon­sid­er the con­ven­tions we have sur­round­ing a nucle­at­ed Christ­mas and how such fes­tiv­i­ties may feel to those either lit­er­al­ly or self-per­ceiv­ably on the out­skirts. Char­ac­ter­is­ti­cal­ly, Edward (played by a young John­ny Depp), as out­lier and reject, fig­ure-head­ed the grow­ing men­tal­i­ty in youth cul­ture of dis­en­fran­chise­ment from and dis­in­ter­est in the idea of being an ‘upstand­ing mem­ber of soci­ety’. What had, for their par­ents, meant work­ing a 9–5 and set­tling down with some­one of a sim­i­lar upstand-ment. Styl­is­ti­cal­ly (thanks to cos­tume design­er Colleen Atwood), he rep­re­sents what this move was to be termed and, when hav­ing found its fash­ioned feet, adorned in; grunge.

Just as impor­tant as Atwood’s con­cep­tions of grunge in the film, which are in part pre-con­cep­tions of the aes­thet­ics posthu­mous reck­on­ing, are her por­tray­als of nor­mal­cy. It is, unsur­pris­ing­ly, essen­tial that, for Edward to be seen as dif­fer­ent, Atwood and Bur­ton must con­jure a con­sis­tent account for what it means to be the same, an effect which is large­ly cre­at­ed through their fash­ion choic­es. From its begin­ning, a hyper-sat­u­rat­ed 60’s styling is set as the unnamed town’s norm. A notion true also of the town itself, what pro­duc­tion design­ers quite con­ve­nient­ly imag­ined as ‘if Leningrad had an Amer­i­can type hous­ing complex’. 

At risk of becom­ing too tan­ta­lis­ing­ly pre­oc­cu­pied with how exact­ly a town like that may have func­tioned, being that this arti­cle is about fash­ion, I’ll move myself quick­ly onto the mes­sage Bur­ton and his design­ers set: sim­ply, that con­ven­tion, in what­ev­er respect we take it, is always and dan­ger­ous­ly con­ducive to a lack of indi­vid­u­al­i­ty. And, despite the vast and seem­ing­ly excit­ing colour­ing to the townspeople’s wardrobes’, cer­tain stills play right into this hand, as in the jux­ta­po­si­tion of mise-en-scene in the two below.

Though the appear­ance of Edward’s unas­sum­ing co-ord would sug­gest it is he who lacks sub­stance, the vapid nature of con­ver­sa­tion in both scenes far­ci­fies their out­fit­ting by oppo­si­tion. The sim­ple fact that he is oth­ered by his lack of colour and unsat­u­rat­ed by an attempt to feign intrigue posi­tions him as dif­fer­ent, and for that dif­fer­ence, bet­ter: an unwit­ting rene­gade of a small-town hive mind. Edward’s oth­er­ing is, how­ev­er, not sole­ly a prod­uct of the work’s styling in a lit­er­al sense. Our pro­tag­o­nist, both con­scious­ly and oth­er­wise, ostracis­es him­self from nor­mal­i­ty and nucle­ation, as in the sad­den­ing scene he hedges the fam­i­ly and is not included. 

In this respect, Edward’s fash­ion­ing takes on a more abstract vein, becom­ing rem­i­nis­cent of the self-pro­fessed out­cast who does not feel they fit into typ­i­cal soci­ety; an arche­type large­ly pop­u­larised and new­ly cel­e­brat­ed in the decade to which the film belongs. Edward’s self-per­cep­tion, which forms an out­cry of the angsty teen-hood to direc­tor Bur­ton him­self, is a pre­cur­sor to the same sen­si­bil­i­ty that would see teenagers trade Wham! for Nir­vana and nau­se­at­ing­ly neon boil­er suits for near enough entire­ly black dress.

More expan­sive­ly, John­ny Depp’s char­ac­ter sym­bol­is­es the true and well-known notion that there is gen­uine­ness to those indi­vid­u­als com­mit­ted to being unre­served­ly one­self, and the irony that Edward is in fact arti­fi­cial – and quite lit­er­al­ly man-made – works to empha­sise the ide­al that it is he who stands strong-in-self against the back lay of man­u­fac­tured iden­ti­ties with­in whom he will meet con­tempt upon arrival and accli­ma­tion to the town. Sim­ply, Edward – the lov­able weirdo with the unfor­tu­nate vice of weapon­ry for hands – in his famous phrase, ‘we are not sheep’, act­ed as a bil­low­ing call to arms for young square-eyed teens of the 90s that they need not be sheep either; a sen­ti­ment glow­ing­ly encap­su­la­tive of the grunge ground­burst that was to soon enwrap the world. 

And enwrap it tru­ly would. Bourne as a melange of 80’s met­al and post-punk alt-rock, the cul­ture was to be firm­ly ground­ed in music, these begin­nings – as is so often true – giv­ing way to mid­dles and ends heav­i­ly con­cerned with, and by, fash­ion. Its over­ar­ch­ing theme was to be the dis­en­fran­chise­ment of youth, and, styl­is­ti­cal­ly and musi­cal­ly alike, the adorn­ments of the counter-cul­ture were bleak wrestlings with attempts to find mean­ing in a hyper-sat­u­rat­ed and com­mer­cialised soci­ety, from which so many young peo­ple felt dis­par­aged. Because of this, such adorn­ments were hearti­ly reac­tionary from the mate­ri­al­ism that the aes­thet­ic came to resent. Note: A not dis­sim­i­lar kind of resent­ment belies Burton’s por­tray­al of mate­ri­al­ism through the towns­peo­ple in Edward Scis­sorhands. The culture’s fash­ion­ing was char­ac­terised by dark colours and ill-fit­ting sec­ond-hand clothes, all of which intend­ed to exter­nalise the sen­ti­ment of not want­i­ng, in fact quite active­ly dis­cour­ag­ing, being looked at or spo­ken to. And so, for the teens of grunge’s new-age, Edward would sit as a paragon, both affirm­ing and ‘pro­ta­gon-ising’ this very feel­ing of lone­li­ness, which had, oth­er­wise – and in oth­er films – been used to depict char­ac­ters as strange mali­cious­ly, rather than pecu­liar, and, for those pecu­liar­i­ties, remarkable. 

All the more heart-warm­ing is it that Edward does not remain alone in his unortho­dox. Kim, played by Winona Ryder, is so moved by Edward’s endur­ing endear­ment that her char­ac­ter­is­ing, which starts as pop­u­lar cheer­leader – and is styled in tones resem­blant to the rest of the town – shifts, in the film’s final acts, to the neu­tral tones con­no­ta­tive of non-con­ven­tion in the Edward Scis­sorhands-verse, in which she new­ly and sole­ly joins her love inter­est, our pro­tag­o­nist, who has been with­out a com­pan­ion near­ly his whole life.

Burton’s con­cep­tions of out­lier-hood, which would prove sem­i­nal to the hum­ming grunge move­ment, found their way into the haute spot­light not long after. Marc Jacobs’ infa­mous show for Per­ry Ellis in 1992, ‘Grunge Col­lec­tion’, was an ode to the Seat­tle-based scene. Mod­els, like Nao­mi Camp­bell, Kate Moss, and Chris­sy Turling­ton, sport­ing Doc Martens, flan­nel, and – if you can believe it – bean­ies, proved a thing so con­tro­ver­sial that renowned fash­ion crit­ic Cathy Horyn would deem the show, and the counter-cul­ture it cham­pi­oned, an ‘anath­e­ma to fash­ion’, a sen­ti­ment she would lat­er retract in a 2018 arti­cle by The Cut, ‘it’s hard to believe we were so offend­ed’, she coy­ly acqui­esces. Regard­less, Jacobs would be near imme­di­ate­ly fired from his house in a quite per­fect drama­ti­sa­tion of mis­fit cul­ture, will­ing indi­vid­u­al­i­ty, and being ostracised for the both. 

Edward Scis­sorhands is not often thought of as a foreper­son to grunge cul­ture, nor is its nar­ra­tive wide­ly con­sid­ered to be a fes­tive feel-good. Yet, the sto­ry of a broody out­cast who is, at least in part, allowed to play house and try his hand at an uncon­ven­tion­al­ly beau­ti­ful, albeit doomed, love won­ders on the strength of both claims. For me, Edward Scis­sorhands nar­rates the par­tic­u­lar toil of feel­ing mis­un­der­stood; some­thing entire­ly non­spe­cif­ic to the cul­ture of grunge, and, in fact, quite akin to the inner child, or angsty teen, many of us are returned to in the hol­i­day peri­od. Nonethe­less, Bur­ton reminds us it’s okay to wear black at Christ­mas, and, while every­one fights over the turkey or gravy, it’s alright to sit in the cor­ner and lis­ten to Deftones. 

Sources

Open­ing image 
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6d/96/40/6d9640119337150038b25ed7478fcdb2.jpg

Stills oth­er­wise from Edward Scis­sorhands dir by. Tim Bur­ton (1990), 20th Cen­tu­ry Fox., Ama­zon Prime, [accessed] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edward-Scissorhands-Dianne-Wiest/dp/B00FYHVBE8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=CPMUBYM4USMJ&keywords=edward+scissorhands+movie&qid=1702394315&s=instant-video&sprefix=edward+s%2Cinstant-video%2C67&sr=1–1

https://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/28715/1/the-secret-history-of-edward-scissorhands

‘Son­ic Youth, 2005’.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:SonicYouth.JPG

‘Eddie Ved­der, 1992’.
https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/usa/washington/articles/a‑brief-history-of-grunge-the-seattle-sound

Cathy Horyn in ‘The Cut’
https://www.thecut.com/2018/11/marc-jacobs-1992-grunge-collection-reissue.html

‘Edward and Kim’
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/702420873146120615/